NORTH STARS:
Wildlife Ecosystems
Heritage Value
Community Support
“Sterrekopje had managed to do that rare thing, etching itself into my heart as a place I am certain to return to, if only for that all too necessary reminder of “ah, this is how life should be.”
On the first morning of my stay at Sterrekopje (pronounced stare-eh-kopf), a healing farm tucked amidst several vineyards in Franschhoek, South Africa, I woke to the rustle of leaves outside and the slow crescendo of birdsong as the sun took its time to spill the day’s first light over surrounding mountains. As I regained consciousness, my brain soon flooded with the myriad ways I hoped to take advantage of my newly-serene surroundings. I mentally ticked through the to-do list: morning meditation, yoga, photography around the farm, a cold plunge in the pool, then a quick breakfast before my spa treatment. The opportunity to do any of these things is a blessing, surely. But what I came to know after four, delicious days here is how the truest blessing – and perhaps that most difficult to achieve – is having no mental list at all.
Sterrekopje isn’t just a retreat; it’s a deliberate invitation to decelerate and tactilely reconnect with the world around you. The farm’s sprawling 123 acres are bursting with regeneratively-grown wildflower gardens laid-out intentionally to get lost in. Friendly resident animals roam in paddocks and invite passers-by to come in for a cuddle. An estate pond is large enough to reflect the cloud-topped mountains, yet small enough to ensure the only purpose of a canoe paddle is to aimlessly drift about, disturbing the reflected scenery in one’s idle wake.
This farm is an achievement in the sort of rustic luxury I’ve yet to experience anywhere else. Staying here is like having all the benefits of farm life, without any of the labor. And it is beautiful. Every room and garden is perfectly staged as though for a Vogue editorial. Every thoughtfully curated pillow, piece of art or book extends its gentle hand, coaxing guests to slowly let go of their productivity-prone mindset and embrace a more leisurely rhythm. Surrounded by such beauty, the only choice is to soak it in. To just be.
Wandering through the gardens that first morning, cup of warm cacao in hand, I felt the first pull of Sterrekopje’s magic. Without thinking, I reached out, trailing my fingers through the passing petals and leaves, feeling such simple joy at being among nature’s bounty with nothing to do but appreciate it.
The healing experience at Sterrekopje starts by putting guests “where their hands are.” This might happen while sitting at one of their in-room writing desks, equipped with pens and fresh paper. Or during one of the daily painting or pottery classes. The donkeys, in particular, have a way of bringing you into the moment, gleefully trotting up the minute you approach as though seeking a warm hug from an old friend.
In the end, I did get to my morning meditations and my yoga sessions. I indeed spent heavenly afternoons at the spa, enjoying a massage or their signature cleansing ritual at the Turkish hammam. Yet despite how wonderful those experiences were, what astonished me was how much more I savored the ordinary moments. The things I do at home – playing backgammon with my husband, sharing a meal together under the stars or simply taking a walk together. One afternoon, I took the book I was reading to a grassy patch behind my sanctuary. Soon, however, the herb scented air and softness of the grass were so seductive that I set the book aside and lay back, watching the clouds drift lazily across the sky. My husband later found me napping in the grass, not a blanket to be found. I might feel ridiculous doing this in the real world, but at Sterrekopje, this level of effortless aimlessness is exactly the point.
As I watched the late afternoon sun begin to bathe the farm in its glorious golden hue, I wondered at my empty mind. It was the last evening of our stay. I wanted to hold back the hurried pace of business-as-usual, but knew it would soon collapse around me once again, like a tent without its scaffolding. I would miss the donkeys. I would miss the farm-fresh meals. I would miss the staff, their friendly smiles and private jokes. At the very least, I hoped to keep my renewed perspective on living more mindfully and finding joy in the simple moments – wet grass between toes, sliding into a hot bath, or the smell of a good book.
The retreat had subtly-yet-firmly guided me into a more languid existence. As a travel writer, I am often moving from one destination to the next, constantly chasing a new story. But Sterrekopje had managed to do that rare thing, etching itself into my heart as a place I am certain to return to, if only for that all too necessary reminder of “ah, this is how life should be.”
Sterrekopje invites all who visit to rediscover the importance of occasionally embracing a more mindful, meandering reality. In an era where days speed by at an increasingly relentless pace, sanctuaries like Sterrekopje become indispensable. We need places that don’t just allow but encourage us to pause, breathe and reconnect with the simple joys that this world provides. Where we can stop taking ourselves and our lists so seriously, and rediscover the childlike wonder in our surroundings. As I continue my travels, I hold onto the profound truth that the most meaningful travels are those that guide us inward, helping us to find stillness, joy, and a deeper connection to both ourselves and the world.
Bonnie is a Bali-based freelance writer specializing in a more eco-conscious brand of luxury travel, design, style and wellbeing. Her bylines to-date include Azure Road, Elle UK, BBC Travel, Artful Living, Upscale Living, BLLNR, Well + Good, The New Zealand Herald and many others. For more from Bonnie, you can subscribe to her Substack or follow Bonnie on IG @eco.luxury.bon.
North Stars: Community Support, Heritage Value, Wildlife Ecosystems