“I knew the basic principles of a haka as a war dance, preparing warriors for battle. What I didn’t know was the direct translations and the story.”

If you’ve ever been to Aotearoa New Zealand, then the chances are pretty good that you’ve been to a Māori cultural show. While they’re available all around the country, Rotorua is the Māori heartland with numerous experiences, tours, and local homestyle stays to experience. However, some are more genuine than others. Having previously visited some of the well-publicized experiences in Rotorua, I was curious to find something that connected more deeply with the Māori community of today.

Located a little under an hour away from Rotorua, near Galatea in Murupara, lies Kohutapu Lodge. Run by husband and wife team Nadine and Karl Toe Toe, this is a Māori stay and cultural immersion like no other. Some people will talk about community-led tourism, but until you’ve stayed here, it’s hard to get a clear picture of how it’ll really work in practice.

When you arrive down a small country road, you’re unsure about what’s ahead, but it soon opens up to a series of beautiful chalet-style rooms, a wide green space, and a huge expansive view across the neighboring lake. A picture-perfect bench overlooks the expanse, inviting you to linger with a local beer from the adjacent lodge bar as the sun slowly sets. Birds sing and swoop ahead, creating a deep sense of peace and connection with nature—qualities central to the lodge’s identity.

During your stay, Nadine often talks about whānau, the Māori word for family, which also includes extended kinship and deeper connections. This perfectly captures the experience at Kohutapu: they welcome you with open arms, embracing you as part of their family. Even after one night, you feel you’ve known them for years.

Several factors contribute to this warmth. An extended family and close friends within the Māori community run the lodge, creating a sense of belonging. Additionally, Nadine and Carl live onsite, literally inviting you into their home.

Everything from the cozy rooms and bunkhouses to the partially covered decks featuring a small but inviting bar helps you feel at ease. A short walk leads to a fire pit, where guests gather to share stories, enjoy mulled wine, and express gratitude.

Shared cultural experiences provide the cornerstone to a stay at Kohutapu Lodge. These include enjoying a traditionally cooked hangi meal that’s prepared and lowered into the crowd in front of you. This is a delicious and homely blend of lamb, kumara potatoes, assorted local veggies, and freshly made fry bread that fills your soup and your stomach after a day of trying your hand at Maori games, and, of course, learning the haka.

As a rugby lover, I was familiar with the haka as a war dance designed to prepare warriors for battle, but I hadn’t known the direct translations or deeper meanings behind one of the most popular hakas performed globally at tournaments.

Guided by Taz, we learned the significance behind the famous chants, attempting to align the iconic movements with correct pronunciation. The almost prayer-like repetition, questioning if warriors would live or die, emerging from darkness into sunlight, provided me with a profound new appreciation for a dance I’d watched countless times.

This passion for storytelling became a central theme of my stay, something I eagerly embraced as a writer fascinated by mythology. While walking through Whirinaki Forest, an ancient woodland with trees dating back 1,000 years, Taz shared the names, heritage, and myths associated with each tree, filled with tales of gods and discovery. Along the trail, he introduced medicinal plants still used today, including kawakawa, a numbing and antiseptic plant prevalent in the region and found in creams, teas, and lotions throughout New Zealand.

Yet the true magic of Kohutapu Lodge lies in its commitment to community. During our hangi dinner, the family explained how proceeds from guests’ stays and experiences directly support the local Māori community, funding school uniforms, college courses, training fees, and cultural exchange programs.

A short film reveals that Nadine founded an organization called Native Nations – Tracing Indigenous Footsteps, enabling Māori youth to participate in cultural exchanges with Indigenous communities worldwide, including Aboriginal groups in Australia and First Nations youth in British Columbia, Canada.

Learning about the lodge’s positive impact on the local community deepens your appreciation for both the surroundings and the family hosting you. It’s easy to feel you’re contributing positively while enjoying a memorable experience.

As travelers, we strive to understand the world around us, appreciate local cultures, and support communities through sustainable choices and actions. Nowhere have I encountered this blend of meaningful connection and rewarding experience as profoundly as at Kohutapu Lodge. It’s an experience that will resonate with me for years to come.